SEN MORONOM, Cambodia — The trip to the hills of eastern Cambodia had
all the makings of a luxurious getaway: delicious fresh fruit fed by
hand, a dip in a refreshingly cold watering hole and a relaxing massage.
But
I wasn’t receiving these amenities. Elderly elephants were. And I was
one of several tourists paying for the privilege of doting on them.
At
the Mondulkiri Project, people don’t call the shots; the elephants do.
Visitors come from all over for the chance to interact with the behemoth
creatures by washing them, feeding them, playing with them and, of
course, getting selfies with them. One thing that doesn’t happen: riding
on the animals’ backs.
The Mondulkiri Project acts as a
sanctuary for elephants that worked for timber companies or as
attractions in the tourist hub of Siem Reap. The Mondulkiri Project also
seeks to give the local population, called the Bunong, opportunities
for jobs and help in curtailing logging and promoting forest
conservation.
The Mondulkiri Project began in 2013, founded by
the Tree family, who are not members of the Bunong community but who
support the Bunongs with revenue from the Mondulkiri Project. The Tree
family offers trekking along with the elephant experiences, and they run
Tree Lodge, a bare-bones but comfortable set of bungalows with
magnificent views of the Cambodian countryside.
The elephants
spend all their time in a protected area of the forest, with local
guides watching over them. The elephants were friendly, hungry and eager
to interact with us.
For the humans, there was a lunch of rice,
vegetables, meat and iced coffee. Then an English-speaking Bunong guide
led us on an easy trek through the lush jungles as we headed to a chilly
watering hole to wash one of the creatures.
More photo
opportunity than actual cleansing, the elephant seemed to enjoy getting
his back scratched and didn’t mind the picture-taking. We all had the
same post-cleansing goal anyway: a nap.
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